海角大神

Domestic workers in Lebanon try to escape an exploitative system

DISAPPOINTED BUT UNDETERRED: Mariam Sesay, in her maid鈥檚 uniform, sits by an abandoned building in Beirut. Ms. Sesay advocates for migrant rights.

Adri Salido

March 27, 2025

Since 2017, the activist organization This Is Lebanon has aided women caught up in Lebanon鈥檚 deeply entrenched kafala, or sponsor, system.

Under the system, in place since the 1970s Persian Gulf oil boom increased demand for labor, domestic workers arrive in Lebanon on visas that tie their residency directly to their employer and that offer fewer protections and rights than other visa categories do. A representative from This Is Lebanon says many workers face nonpayment of wages, poor labor conditions, and even physical and sexual abuse, with some sponsors confiscating workers鈥 passports and cellphones to prevent their escape.

In fall 2022, I photographed kafala workers who were trying to get out of the system. They lived in cramped apartments on the outskirts of Beirut, with as many as 15 women sharing the same quarters. As a result, close friendships developed among some of the women. Two years later, before the Israel-Hezbollah war began, I checked back with several of the women to see how their lives had changed. I also reached out after the November 2024 ceasefire.

Why We Wrote This

Dreams of a better life draw women to Lebanon on 鈥渒afala鈥 visas. We followed several women who were desperate to get out of the system.

Akakpo Marthe, a young woman from Benin, says her experience in Lebanon ended badly. She left her employer鈥檚 household before the war and got help from This Is Lebanon to return to her home country. 鈥淣ow, I am undergoing cooking training,鈥 she says proudly.

Salamatu Kargbo, a young woman from Sierra Leone, received help from This Is Lebanon but says she isn鈥檛 returning to her home country until she saves up some money. She doesn鈥檛 want her family to know how bad things are for her in Lebanon. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e probably already ashamed, and I can鈥檛 go back empty-handed,鈥 Ms. Kargbo says. She works part time as a domestic worker, but for a different employer from her initial sponsor.

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Embarrassment motivates many workers to stay in the kafala system. 鈥淚 couldn鈥檛 bring myself to tell my parents about my situation here in Lebanon,鈥 says Mariam Sesay, another young woman from Sierra Leone.

She rode out the war with other kafala workers she met through her volunteer work for the group Migrant Workers鈥 Action. During the war, 鈥淢any had taken refuge on the streets or by the sea,鈥 Ms. Sesay says.

She plans to return to Sierra Leone someday but eventually come back to Lebanon because of the worsening situation at home.

鈥淚 focus on volunteering and advocating for migrant rights wherever I can,鈥 Ms. Sesay says. 鈥淵es, I鈥檓 a victim of the kafala system, but I don鈥檛 want to see myself as a victim.鈥

SHOPPING TRIP: 鈥淜afala鈥 workers (from left) Mariama Dakuwa, Akakpo Marthe, and Salamatu Kargbo make purchases at a neighborhood supermarket.
Adri Salido
MEAL PREP: Zainab Conteh (left) and Ms. Kargbo, both from Sierra Leone, cook on their neighbor鈥檚 terrace.
Adri Salido
CRAMPED QUARTERS: Akakpo Marthe (left) and her sister Akakpo Elisabeth sit in their apartment on the outskirts of Beirut. Akakpo Marthe later returned to Benin.
Adri Salido
REST: Ramatu Kamara (left) lies in her bed. Many 鈥渒afala鈥 workers stay in Lebanon because they don鈥檛 want to disappoint their families by coming home without money.
Adri Salido
DREAMS DASHED: 鈥淜afala鈥 workers who left their sponsors gather in their apartment. The women say they had come to Lebanon yearning for a better life.
Adri Salido
DOWNTIME: Ms. Sesay works out on an old elliptical machine while one of her roommates does another鈥檚 hair. Living in a small apartment has fostered strong bonds of friendship among some of the women.
Adri Salido
STARTING OVER: Ms. Sesay embraces 脡milienne Ayassin, a woman from Benin who recently left her job as a 鈥渒afala鈥 worker.
Adri Salido

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