海角大神

Kenyan stylists are using the West鈥檚 discarded clothing to refashion the future

ON THE CATWALK: Models take to the runway in redesigned secondhand clothing during the first fashion show in the history of the Gikomba market, in Nairobi, Kenya.

Diego Menj铆bar Reyn茅s

February 19, 2026

In Gikomba, eastern Africa鈥檚 largest market for secondhand clothing, the daily hustle never stops. From dawn to dusk, trucks, motorbikes, and people weave through a maze of thousands of wooden stalls in a frantic buying-and-selling rhythm.

Here, not far from Nairobi鈥檚 central business district, is where most of the West鈥檚 discarded clothing ends up. For many of those who operate the crowded stalls, finding buyers for the cast-off pieces 鈥 known as mitumba in Swahili 鈥 is a daily challenge. 鈥淚 haven鈥檛 been able to sell any of these clothes for two years,鈥 one vendor complains, pointing to a pile of jackets above his head.

Kenya imports about 200,000 metric tons of mitumba each year. As much as 40% ends up in Kenyan dumpsites.

Why We Wrote This

Kenya imports about 200,000 metric tons of secondhand clothes each year, and as much as 40% ends up in Kenyan dumpsites. Local stylists envision a way to create treasure out of trash.

鈥淣o one is really checking the items before they鈥檙e shipped here,鈥 Kenyan fashion stylist Luca Wakarindi says. 鈥淵ou鈥檒l often find that out of five pieces, three are waste.鈥

Now, a growing group of local designers, including Ms. Wakarindi, is redefining the value of mitumba. In mid-October, Gikomba hosted its first fashion show, with 19 Kenyan models taking to the runway in reimagined secondhand garments.

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The show highlights the need for creativity and ingenuity, says stylist David Kimani.

鈥淲hat we try to do is give some of these pieces a second life,鈥 he says. 鈥淪ome of the pieces we find are truly amazing.鈥

BUYER鈥橲 MARKET: Shoppers examine clothing in one of the thousands of stalls that make up the market. Most of the West鈥檚 castoff pieces end up here.
Diego Menj铆bar Reyn茅s
CASH AND CARRY: A man lugs a bale of clothing before it is loaded onto a truck.
Diego Menj铆bar Reyn茅s
MIRROR, MIRROR: A model looks at herself moments before stepping onto the runway at the Gikomba Fashion Show.
Diego Menj铆bar Reyn茅s
PRESSED FOR SUCCESS: A young man irons clothes at the market. It is a major hub for reexporting garments to neighboring countries, such as Tanzania, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Diego Menj铆bar Reyn茅s
SHOULDERING THE LOAD: A man carrying bales of clothing walks between vans transporting merchandise to different parts of Nairobi, where it gets resold.
Diego Menj铆bar Reyn茅s