海角大神

A community looks to rewrite its reputation

When the government stripped a small town in France of its public meeting places, residents found a way to gather 鈥� and to preserve their sense of community. 

When I first met Samir Mihi, one of my sources, I had a slightly impertinent question.

鈥淲hy does everyone sit in their cars here?鈥�

I was in Clichy-sous-Bois, reporting on how this Paris suburb has fared since two teenage boys died by electrocution after being chased by police in 2005, setting off riots across France that destroyed parts of the suburb as well as its reputation.

I didn鈥檛 want to be rude. As an American journalist living in the French capital, I had double outsider status: First, I was a foreigner. Second, I resided in Paris.

Ever since the riots, the French government has been trying to close the gap between Paris and its impoverished suburbs. Some things are better, as my cover story explores, but some things have stayed the same.

Notably, there is an absence of public benches 鈥� hence my question to Mr. Mihi. As in many French suburbs, local authorities here have systematically pulled out public benches since 2005 as a way to dissuade loitering, drug use, and other crime. But in doing so, Clichy-sous-Bois lacks meeting places and, quite simply, places to sit.

Instead, locals sit in their cars in the parking lots of social housing blocks, their feet hanging off the edge of their seats with the doors open. They can take in some sun, talk with friends, and also get a moment鈥檚 rest.聽

Large numbers of the mostly foreign-born residents here work physically taxing, low-wage jobs 鈥� such as cleaning the floors of Metro stations and the toilets in office buildings, the jobs that others don鈥檛 want.

Clichy-sous-Bois also suffers from high levels of unemployment, and young people, especially, idle here with little to do. Sitting in their cars, chatting with neighbors and friends, provides a sense of community and shared experience.聽

They fix up broken-down vehicles to save money since cars are essential in places like Clichy-sous-Bois. Transportation to and from Paris is getting better, but it still takes too long and is unreliable. Without a car, that feeling of being stranded is even more heightened.

鈥淭here are no places to sit around here, so people sit in their cars,鈥� responds Mr. Mihi to my question. He seems more matter-of-fact than offended. I鈥檓 relieved. I often felt on the brink of giving offense during this assignment, simply by being an outsider.

Reporting from Clichy-sous-Bois also filled me with frustration 鈥� to see people living with so little in a developed country, to witness the discrimination they face for simply having this address, to view the dilapidated housing estates. Could France be doing more?

I am not in a place to judge, only to observe. What I can say is that Clichy-sous-Bois residents affected me in a surprising way. They were endearing, gritty, sincere, and welcoming. They so desperately want the rest of France to look beyond the riots and see their humanity.

They also would like more public benches to sit on.