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Gap is closing 175 stores. Is the preppy look losing its appeal?

Gap will close a quarter of its North American specialty stores over the next few years, including 140 closures that will happen during the 2015 fiscal year. With slumping sales, what does the retailer need to do to turn things around?

A Gap retail store is shown in San Francisco, California, May 8, 2013. Gap will close a quarter of its North American specialty stores over the next few years, including 140 closures that will happen within the next year.

Robert Galbraith/Reuters/File

June 16, 2015

Clothing retailer Gap is closing a quarter of its specialty stores in North America within the next few years in an attempt to revive its lackluster sales.

Gap plans to close 175 specialty stores in the future, with about 140 closures happening within this fiscal year, That will leave Gap with 500 specialty locations and 300 outlet stores in North America. The retailer will also close an undisclosed number of European locations.

Gap did not indicate how many employees would lose their jobs as a result of the closure. However, the company said it will lay off about 250 people at the corporate level.

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Gap鈥檚 sales have been on the downswing for years. Its same-store sales were down 6 percent in May compared to a year ago, the company reported earlier this month. Back in May, the retailer鈥檚 sales declined 10 percent in the first quarter. The misses haven't been felt company-wide: Old Navy, a division of Gap Inc., continues to have financial success, with sales up 6 percent in May year-to-year for the apparel retailer. But Gap, Inc's leadership sees reversing the fortunes of the company's namesake brand as essential.聽

鈥淩eturning Gap brand to growth has been the top priority since my appointment four months ago 鈥 and Jeff [Kirwan] and his team bring a sense of urgency to this work,鈥 said Art Peck, Gap Inc.鈥檚 CEO said in the press release. 鈥淐ustomers are rapidly changing how they shop today, and these moves will help get Gap back to where we know it deserves to be in the eyes of consumers.鈥

Marshal Cohen, a retail analyst at The NPD Group, was not surprised that Gap announced the closings. In the 1980s, Gap kicked off a major store development program in which the company built stores left, right, and center. Every decade since then, Gap has made cutbacks, closing a number of stores every few years, Mr. Cohen says in a phone interview

鈥淚t鈥檚 even more so a reflection of retail in general,鈥 he says. 鈥淸Every store is] being assessed [on whether] it's profitable or not.鈥

The apparel retailer does have its own set of unique problems, and it lies in the khakis: Gap is arguably synonymous for 鈥渂asic鈥 and 鈥減reppy.鈥 Throughout the 1980s and 90s, it gained a huge following for its simple shirts, button-downs, and pants. Gap鈥檚 style cultivated enough loyal shoppers for Adam Sandler and David Spade to poke fun at the retailer in a in 1993.

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But that basic-ness at the heart of Gap's identity has gotten old, industry experts say.

"The problem was Gap got boring,鈥 retail analyst Candace Corlett 鈥淎fter the popularity of the khaki, it was an ongoing parade. How many tan khakis and white button-down shirts does someone need? They were always the old, reliable Gap but high energy, trendy retailers were moving into the closet."

Trendier retailers, meanwhile, have done a better job at luring in younger shoppers. on what brands appeal the most to Millennials, which they defined as ages 20 to 35. Forever 21, JCPenney, and Aeropostale were in the top 50. Gap was not.

Cohen said Gap needs to reinvent itself to appeal to Millennials and the next crop of teenagers, Generation Z. With the increasing competition for younger shoppers, Gap can no longer afford to be just about basics, he said. It has to do something new.

鈥淕ap is up against Millennials, Cohen said. 鈥淭hey don鈥檛 want to go to shop where their mothers shop. They want something that鈥檚 theirs.鈥