海角大神

For Iran's women's movement, progress is slow. But it's progress.

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Vahid Salemi/AP
Iranian spectators wave the national flag at a men鈥檚 soccer game between Iran and Bolivia, at the Azadi (Freedom) Stadium, in Tehran, Oct. 16. In a rare move, authorities allowed a select group of women in.

For Iran鈥檚 ever-striving women鈥檚 movement, it was a small but significant step forward: 150 female soccer fans were allowed into Tehran鈥檚 Freedom Stadium last Tuesday to watch the men鈥檚 national team beat Bolivia, 2-1.

Excited by the historic import of their presence after years of campaigning, the women draped themselves in Iranian flags and flooded social media with exuberant selfies.

The Islamic Republic has banned women from live male sporting events such as soccer and volleyball for most of its 40-year existence.

Why We Wrote This

Observer or participant? When assessing change, frame of reference matters. So it is with the progress of Iran's women's movement. As one woman told us: 鈥淵ou don鈥檛 change a patriarchal society overnight.鈥

But this time, the women were provided separate seats, entrances, and bathroom facilities. Most were handpicked national-level soccer players themselves, or worked for the Iranian soccer federation.聽聽聽

Savoring the moment, few left immediately after the game, and not before voluntarily cleaning up trash from their section of the stands.

鈥淔or years I passed by you [Freedom Stadium] and you were just a big question mark,鈥 wrote the actress Nafiseh Roshan on her Instagram page. 鈥淲hat a special feeling to watch football in your country鈥檚 best stadium!鈥

Outside Iran, that benchmark may appear inconsequential, and has even been dismissed by some Iranian women abroad as a 鈥渢rick鈥 orchestrated by officials to give the appearance of loosening of social rules, while a crackdown and arrests continue.

Slow but deliberate progress

But inside Iran, where women activists have struggled for decades for equal social rights and respect in the face of a tradition of patriarchy 鈥撀爊ever mind strict social rules since the 1979 Islamic Revolution, which require women to cover their hair and mask the shape of their bodies, among other restrictions 鈥 entry to the stadium for a live game was the latest sign of slow but deliberate progress.

鈥淭here are many, many sad stories around the country, but in general women are more in power, more in charge of their lives,鈥 says Nazila Noebashari, an art gallery owner in central Tehran.

鈥淚t hasn鈥檛 been easy for Iranian women. But we have also done extraordinary things, all of us,鈥 says Ms. Noebashari. She notes relative progress on laws, on the number of women now serving as local and district officials and in parliament, and how female university students far outnumber males.

鈥淵ou don鈥檛 change a patriarchal society overnight; it鈥檚 been centuries of women in dark corners, abused and abandoned even,鈥 says Noebashari. 鈥淏ut now everything has changed and there is no going back. More and more we see independent women ... pushing ahead and all kinds of good stories 鈥撀燼nd also bad ones.鈥

President Hassan Rouhani has made loosening social restrictions a popular part of his declared agenda since first being elected in 2013. He has criticized over-zealous gasht-e ershad morality police patrols, for example, for 鈥渉olding onto people鈥檚 collars on the streets,鈥 stating that is 鈥渘ot the right way of instructing virtue.鈥

But in Iran social change is inextricably tied to the vertiginous oscillations of politics, which often pit hard-line officials and clerics against reform-minded politicians and activists. Mr. Rouhani is already under siege by political opponents for failing to improve the economy as he promised after Iran agreed to the landmark 2015 Iran nuclear deal, and one result is that many social changes have barely been tangible.

鈥榊our skin becomes thicker鈥

鈥淢any taboos are being broken, but we鈥檙e far from ideal,鈥 says Shahrzad Hemmati, a journalist from the reformist Shargh newspaper who writes about women鈥檚 issues.

鈥淲e should not depend on [Rouhani鈥檚] government, because government is involved in a fight themselves,鈥 she says. 鈥淭his is part of it, to be arrested, detained. This is part of history to stand, to be strong. There is a saying in Persian that 鈥榶our skin becomes thicker,鈥 like a rhinoceros.鈥

Still, women鈥檚 activists have had the support of several female members of Parliament. The MPs joined the activists in June, sitting on the track at Freedom Stadium to ensure that women 鈥 after a noisy public fight 鈥 were allowed in to watch on video screens as Iran鈥檚 national soccer team played World Cup matches in Russia.

鈥淭his is progress, but we can鈥檛 say a huge circle is opening before us,鈥 says Ms. Hemmati. 鈥淓verything we do with civil rights is political in Iran. They treat us like these are anti-man, anti-religious things. Even when you see good and positive steps are taken, other roads are closed.鈥

Lawmaker Parvaneh Salahshouri, from the president鈥檚 鈥淗ope鈥 faction, speaks proudly of her role producing the 鈥渆mpowering women鈥 elements of Iran鈥檚 6th five-year development plan, put forward in March 2017, which dealt with family issues and promoted women in the workforce. She notes a doubling of women in official positions across the board, from local and municipal posts to national office in recent years and says change should be 鈥渃onstant and steady.鈥

鈥淲omen are not that limited or under pressure as [outsiders] say,鈥 says Ms. Salahshouri. 鈥淭hey can go anywhere they want. They can study. There are women entrepreneurs. They can express their demands more explicitly and freely. The image they try to create of an Iranian woman [abroad] is totally different from one who comes to Iran and witnesses it with their own eyes.鈥

From dancer to cultural warrior

Still, there is no shortage of bad-news headlines for the women鈥檚 movement. A young Iranian gymnast, Maedeh Hojabri, was arrested over the summer for posting online videos of herself dancing, for example. She was forced to confess to creating 鈥渋mmoral鈥 videos on state-run television, in an episode that was widely condemned, even by hard-liners.

The arrest and confession ended up backfiring.

鈥淭hat was such a miracle!鈥 wrote Mohsen Bayat Zanjani, the moderate son of a top cleric, in an online post. 鈥淚n a society that is thirsty for heroes, you managed to transform a once-simple dancer into a social activist, a civil campaigner, a cultural warrior, and a heroine of the new generation.鈥

Since mid-2017, women protesting mandatory hijab rules by taking part in a so-called #WhiteWednesday campaign 鈥 in which they take off their head coverings and hold white headscarves on sticks above their heads 鈥 have been arrested one after another.

鈥淭he regime is okay with these [protest] campaigns because it is easy to identify people, detain them, and make them afraid to protest again,鈥 says a veteran male journalist who asked not to be named. 鈥淵ou see some campaigns born, then they are no more.鈥

But videotape of those incidents, as well as footage of morality police squads aggressively challenging reasonably clothed Iranian women, sparked outrage. One event last April went viral.

Actress Taraneh Alidoosti, star of the Oscar-winning film 鈥淭he Salesman鈥 who has 5.3 million followers on Twitter, echoed many when she wrote of the incident: 鈥淐lawing on a woman鈥檚 hair and headscarf is not 鈥榞uidance,鈥 holding the necks of girls for your values is not guidance, it is savagery. This is the 鈥榩atrol of stifling, bullying and barbarism.鈥 鈥

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
A shop owner in Tehran works beneath a yellow sign created by the @HarassWatch campaign by Iranian women activists to tell men that harassing women is a "crime" under Islamic law, and that women should be respected, Sept. 21, 2018.

Still, such popular reactions are progress for Iran鈥檚 women鈥檚 movement. As is one anti-harassment campaign that has taken root, concurrent with the #MeToo movement in the West.

Yellow posters are taped to the walls of restaurants, clothes shops, juice bars, and in underground train stations and in taxis, reminding men that harassing women聽is a 鈥渃rime鈥 under Islamic law, and that they should 鈥渞espect other citizens鈥 rights.鈥

Don't be an onlooker

The @harasswatch webpage includes a map of Iran, with each incident of reported harassment marked. These 鈥渟hared wounds indicate that we should move together鈥 to improve sensitivity, it says.

One poster even shows morality police trying to detain a woman, with the words: 鈥淲hen a lady is being abused, don鈥檛 only be an onlooker.鈥

鈥淧eople鈥檚 views have changed ... and the way people fight has changed; they have the media in their hands,鈥 says journalist Hemmati, who says the poster campaign is especially effective at raising awareness.

鈥淚f the morality police arrested you before, girls were so worried that their parents would find out. Now if they are arrested, the parents take flowers to their daughters,鈥 she says. People on the street also actively try to intervene, to prevent arrests 鈥撀燼nd cheer when people are let go.

Hard-line officials 鈥渃an鈥檛 stop people from thinking and becoming enlightened,鈥 says Hemmati. 鈥淭he change is cutting through the heart of society, and nobody can stop it.鈥

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