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With nostalgia at the helm, the Belle of Louisville steamboat keeps paddling along

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Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
ROLLIN' ON THE RIVER: A Mennonite couple watch the paddle wheel of the Belle of Louisville during a cruise up the Ohio River, in Louisville, Kentucky, July 26. The boat is an icon for the city and a National Historic Landmark.

Twenty-two years ago, Matt Kemp struck up a conversation with crew members of the Belle of Louisville. To him, the sheet-cake-shaped steamboat, built in 1914, evoked nostalgia.

鈥淲hat does it take to get a job here?鈥 Mr. Kemp asked. He got hired as a deck mate.

The love affair with steamboats hasn鈥檛 waned for either Mr. Kemp or the rest of the crew. The vessels are imbued with the romance of a simpler era. Time passed as slowly then as it does now for the Belle of Louisville, slipping past the grand homes lining the Ohio River. 鈥淲e鈥檙e in this little magical bubble that is held in time,鈥 Mr. Kemp says.

In the lower-deck boiler room 鈥 which is temperate only in comparison with the surface of Venus 鈥 chief engineer Daniel Lewis says the engines are the same as they were in Mark Twain鈥檚 time. Best part of the job? Meeting passengers from around the world. It鈥檚 hard to hear him talk, because the rotating paddle wheel churns the water like a frenzy of piranhas.

The roof-deck pilot house is more tranquil. Acting captain Eddie Mattingly describes his job as 鈥渉ours and hours of boredom interrupted by moments of sheer terror.鈥 He says he scans the river for small personal watercraft, including Jet Skis 鈥 鈥済nats鈥 who can swarm dangerously close to the vessel. Mr. Mattingly has been doing this for 45 years, so maritime safety is, quite literally, in his wheelhouse. 鈥淎s long as you鈥檙e able to take care of her, she鈥檒l keep running,鈥 Mr. Lewis says of the boat.

Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
IN SHIP-TOP SHAPE: The pilot house, where the captain and pilot work, sits on the roof of the Belle of Louisville.
Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
FULL TEAM AHEAD! Acting captain Eddie Mattingly is among the crew members of the Kentucky-based Belle of Louisville, a steamboat that cruises the Ohio River.
Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
PADDLE ROYALE: The Belle of Louisville is an icon for the city and a National Historic Landmark. It is the only remaining paddle-wheel-driven steamboat from the American packet boat era. Packet boats carried mail and passengers.
Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
TURN, TURN, TURN: The boat鈥檚 paddle wheel is made of 608 paddlewood pieces and weighs 17.5 tons. Each piece can last up to 20 years before needing to be replaced.
Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
WATER MARK: The boat鈥檚 boiler was converted from coal to diesel in the 1950s and can hold 6,500 gallons of water.
Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
GENTLEMAN, START THE ENGINES: Chief engineer Daniel Lewis works in the engine room. He says the engines are the same as they were in author Mark Twain鈥檚 time.

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