The last of Estonia鈥檚 master canoe-makers are still carving their niche
| Tohera, Estonia
On a gray morning, Aivar Ruukel is scouting for the ideal aspen in the Soomaa, a vast wilderness area in southwestern Estonia. The aspen is the preferred tree for making a haabjas, or traditional dugout canoe 鈥� an art that is now endangered.
鈥淭he ideal tree should have the shape of a pencil, but every tree is perfect in its own way,鈥� even if only a few can be used to build the boat, says Mr. Ruukel.
Some of the trees are covered with black canker, a fungal infection. 鈥淵ou can鈥檛 make a haabjas out of them, but they are used by woodpeckers to make their nests, so they serve a higher purpose,鈥� he says.
Why We Wrote This
Estonia鈥檚 traditional dugout canoe was a necessary means of transportation in the past. Now it has become an endangered identity marker for the country.
Mr. Ruukel is one of the last five masters in the Baltic country who make the canoes. Until the 1960s, it was the conventional means of transportation in the Soomaa, or 鈥渓and of bogs,鈥� region during the spring floods, locally known as the fifth season. Mr. Ruukel and Priit-Kalev Parts, another haabjas maker, are the most vocal advocates for preserving the tradition, which is threatened by the making of fiberglass or other modern 鈥� often motorized 鈥� boats.
Both Mr. Ruukel and Mr. Parts learned their craft from older masters in the early 1990s, shortly after Estonia gained its independence from the Soviet Union, and are now trying to engage the new generation, training young apprentices in haabjas building. A skillful wielding of the axe to hollow out the tree is only part of the required expertise and techniques, which also involve expanding the trunk by filling it with water and then hanging it above a carefully controlled fire.
What was a necessary means of transportation in the past has now become an Estonian identity marker. In 2021, haabjas building was inscribed on UNESCO鈥檚 List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding.
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