Moran recalls a time when, after having to pay off taxes she'd missed, she went through a period of not having a lot of spending money and realized her clothing options were limited. "Here is the sum total of my clothing at the age of 24," she wrote. "A black velvet floor-length goth dress, which I bought when I was 17 and now has... bald patches on the elbows from wear. Two pairs of trousers 鈥 one black, one navy. A free promotional T-shirt by the band Salad, which has the word 'Salad' on it, which I like to wear while preparing, or eating, sausages. A green chenille cardigan from Marks & Spencer, which is so nice I've twice had to steal it back off my sister Col when she comes for a visit. A Victorian-style nightie, which I often style out as daywear. And my bathing suit."

Mary Knox Merrill