海角大神

海角大神 / Text

鈥楾he game of life and death鈥: An ancient sport revives in Mexico (video)

Ulama was once a high-stakes ritual in Mesoamerica. Today, as renewed nationalism takes hold in Mexico, a new generation is discovering the game.聽

By Alfredo Sosa, Director of Photography Sara Miller Llana, Staff writer
Mexico City

One evening in Mexico City, young people suit up on a stone-walled court and start passing a ball back and forth. But this is no soccer game.

The 20- and 30-somethings are about to play ulama, a ballgame that dates back thousands of years and was once a high-stakes ritual in Mesoamerica. The modern iteration no longer entails human sacrifice, but it is still fierce: Players can only hit the 6-pound ball with their hips.

Today, 500 years after the first conquistadors set foot in present-day Mexico, a renewed sense of nationalism is surfacing, including a revival of precolonial art and sport. For many players, learning ulama is about more than entertainment; it鈥檚 about understanding themselves.

The sport is 鈥渢he game of life and death,鈥 says coach Emmanuel Kakalotl, echoing back to its ancient roots. It鈥檚 especially important for young people to get involved, he adds, so they connect with that legacy.

鈥淲e want them to know that they are part of the universe,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hat the great spirit in the universe resides in their hearts.鈥