海角大神

How Lebanese escape Hezbollah-Israel fight, a war beyond their control

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Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
Lebanese children, displaced from the southern border region by escalating Hezbollah-Israel rocket and artillery exchanges, revel in their collection by bus for a weekly theater and arts and crafts program at the renovated Rivoli Cinema in Tyre, Lebanon, May 21, 2024.

Displaced by war and traumatized by lives turned upside down, the Lebanese schoolchildren jump for joy, scream, and run with abandon when their bus arrives.

It鈥檚 a dilapidated American school bus, covered in graffiti, but it鈥檚 their ticket to an afternoon of escape.

The children race to be the first on the bus for the ride from their temporary shelter in a school to a theater renovated by the Tiro Association for Arts. There, they will participate in games on the stage and art activities that could not feel farther from south Lebanon鈥檚 front lines 鈥 which is precisely the point.

Why We Wrote This

Nonbelligerents in war often pay a very high price in the violent disruption of their lives. In Lebanon, the children, perhaps, can be entertained and distracted in the moment, but adults are all too aware of the value of what has been lost.

As the children sing and dance, with music blaring from the bus speakers, they are clearly grateful for this excuse to leave behind the dangers and tensions of the escalating conflict between the Iran-backed Shiite Hezbollah militia and Israel.

Over the last eight months, the low-level war has displaced some 90,000 Lebanese from the border and left 100 civilians dead.

鈥淏ombing chased us all the way,鈥 says a mother, who gives the name Farah, about her family鈥檚 escape to the coastal city of Tyre from their border village of Beit Lif when the fighting erupted last October. Wearing a white headscarf with sunglasses perched on top, she rides the bus with her five children, who are bursting with excitement for the theater fun that they know awaits them.

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
A Lebanese mother who gave the name Farah rides the bus with her children to a weekly theater and arts and crafts program in Tyre, Lebanon, May 21, 2024. The family was displaced from its home near Lebanon's border with Israel by months of Hezbollah-Israel fighting.

While these children enjoy a brief respite, their moment of happiness is but one bright point along the wide spectrum of challenging and often debilitating experiences for the tens of thousands of Lebanese caught in this war, which began when Hezbollah launched attacks against Israel in solidarity with the Palestinian Hamas.

The civilians are traumatized 鈥 some, they say, to the point of contemplating suicide 鈥 by the violent disruption of their lives by events beyond their control, with no end to the conflict in sight.

鈥淪ometimes air strikes happen, and the kids hear it here and start screaming 鈥撀爐hey developed a phobia from the bombing,鈥 Farah says. 鈥淭his [arts experience] makes them forget the war, and keeps their minds busy with something else.鈥

Arriving at the theater, the children clamber off the bus 鈥撀燼 brightly painted but rusting school bus built in the United States in 1977. The Tiro Association, which calls it the 鈥淧eace Art Bus,鈥 has launched a GoFundMe campaign to pay for an upgrade.聽

Some children go upstairs to draw and paint in rooms hung with old movie posters and antique metal film reels. Other children pass down the aisles of plush velvet seats in the auditorium and climb onto the stage, where Tiro Association executive director Kassem Istanbouli 鈥 with his voluminous hair and irresistible energy 鈥 leads a series of acting and role-play exercises under the stage lights.

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
Kassem Istanbouli, founder of the Tiro Association for Arts, leads Lebanese children in onstage exercises during a weekly theater and arts and program in Tyre, Lebanon, May 21, 2024.

鈥淐ulture is a way of resistance,鈥 says Mr. Istanbouli, who founded the association in 2014 to restore old theaters and turn them into arts centers. 鈥淲hen you open the space during a conflict, it is resistance to be alive, to say, 鈥榃e are here,鈥 to say, 鈥榃e need to complete life鈥 鈥 to give joy to the children.鈥

鈥淭hey have many dreams,鈥 he says of the 300 children from underprivileged families that the Tiro Association now supports with art and theater.

鈥淲hat is important now is to take all the pressure out,鈥 says Mr. Istanbouli. 鈥淚magine you lose your house; you are sitting in [shelter] schools all this time. You think you will go back in one week, and then you are eight or nine months in the schools 鈥撀爄t鈥檚 a difficult life.鈥

The games in the theater 鈥渓et them use their voices and their bodies, to feel joy and make them laugh,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 space where we share a human language. We laugh together; we clap together. They dance from the beginning to the end. They have energy. They need to get this energy out.鈥

Such moments of joy are in short supply for many of the other tens of thousands of Lebanese who fled the border region. The majority now live in safer areas, staying with family members or in rented accommodations, but after eight months of war, resources and goodwill have run thin or been depleted altogether.

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
Lebanese children board the Peace Art Bus, which will take them to their theater and arts program in Tyre, May 21, 2024.

When this war began, many expected a scenario similar to that of 2006, when the last major Hezbollah-Israel battle destroyed much of southern Lebanon, but was also over in 33 days.

鈥淎t the beginning, the Lebanese people did panic. ... You saw a lot of preemptive displacement; people thought the sky would fall on their heads,鈥 says Maureen Philippon, the Lebanon country director for the Norwegian Refugee Council, which supports the displaced and some of the 60,000 Lebanese estimated to remain within 6 miles of the border.

Lebanon is confronting a national economic slide that has left half its citizens and more than 90% of Syrian and Palestinian refugees living here living below the poverty line, and relief agencies and the United Nations already face cash shortages.

Nongovernmental agencies like the Norwegian Refugee Council planned for worst cases such as the entire south of Lebanon being cut off. Early on, under the assumption聽that supermarkets would be closed, food parcels containing a two-week dry food ration and household cleaning products were standard for those who remained.

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
A school crosswalk sign remains standing as homes in a 海角大神 village near the border with Israel lie in ruins after an Israeli attack against Hezbollah militia targets, in Alma el-Shaab, Lebanon, May 18, 2024.

鈥淲e are still keeping ready for worst-case scenarios, but because everyone learned to live in that environment [of continuing conflict], cash makes more sense,鈥 says Ms. Philippon, of how assistance is often distributed now.

鈥淲e鈥檝e seen an intensification of the fighting, in both ways,鈥 she adds of the Hezbollah-Israel exchanges of recent weeks. Though it鈥檚 been quieter the last few days, overall this front has seen 鈥渇lare-ups, and an聽increase in violence,聽that聽are more intense, more frequent, and last longer in time.鈥

鈥淭he stress on the families who stayed there 鈥 and the kids, in a number of families we interviewed 鈥 the psychological effect of the bombing, the noise, the fear, is super heavy,鈥 she says.聽

Indeed, the toll of living away from home for so many months has been high for many. One farmer fled to Beirut with his wife three days after the war began. On the sixth day, his neighbors reported that his house had been destroyed in an Israeli strike.

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/海角大神
Lebanese children, displaced by war, work on art projects at the renovated Rivoli Cinema in Tyre, May 21, 2024.

鈥淚 am willing to go back now, put a tent on the rubble of my house, and stay,鈥 says the farmer, whose house of three decades used to be 500 yards from the Israel border. The farmer, who withheld his name for security reasons, says he pines for the fresh air, the tasty crunch of his own produce, and quiet nights.

The eight-month stay squeezed in with his son鈥檚 family in Beirut has been so stressful that his wife has been admitted to a hospital for anxiety. Their savings were used up long ago. The farmer now sells vegetables from a street stall to keep busy, but he earns a pittance, and the long hours are not sustainable.

鈥淎 lot of us thought it would end quickly, but it keeps escalating every day,鈥 says the farmer, whose face is creased from his eyes to the corners of his mouth. He breaks down in tears, and says he has considered ending his life.

鈥淚 can鈥檛 take it anymore,鈥 he says, adding that he can鈥檛 afford to treat his wife.

鈥淪he had a lot of anxiety because of the bombing at the border,鈥 he says. 鈥淲e have a fear of watching TV, of watching houses being destroyed. When we watch the news, there is no sleep at night.鈥

Referring to the聽the belligerents in this war, he adds,聽鈥淭hey can go to the mountains far away and fight day and night. ... I just want a house.鈥

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