France: Happy 120th, La Tour Eiffel
鈥� A local, slice-of-life story from a Monitor correspondent.
PARIS 鈥� It鈥檚 still the beacon of Paris 鈥� 120 years later. When built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 鈥渦niversal鈥� fair in Paris, the Eiffel Tower was the planet鈥檚 highest structure. Today it鈥檚 one of the most emblematic 鈥� a symbol of the launch of modernity, an artist鈥檚 icon, a destination for lovers who propose marriage at 1,000 feet.
For the 120th there鈥檚 an exhibit on Gustave Eiffel 鈥� who also worked on the Statue of Liberty 鈥� the 鈥渋ron magician鈥� behind the revolutionary design. So revered is the Eiffel that it鈥檚 a shock at 120 to find out how close it came to being torn down.
Art and culture critics trashed the tower: 鈥渁 monstrous barbaric mass,鈥� 鈥渁 black, gigantic factory chimney.鈥� Belle 脡poque humorist Tristan Bernard liked climbing it, he said, because once up, 鈥渋t is the only place in Paris where you don鈥檛 have to look at it.鈥�
In time, the tower grew on Parisians. Its shape is grand, yet always 鈥渟eems touchable,鈥� says one. In early years, before air flight, and for residents of a city with narrow streets and endless five-story buildings, the sight of everyday Paris from atop the tower was reputedly a mind-expanding experience.
Constant plans to tear down the tower got scotched when French Gen. Gustave Ferrie used it for 鈥渞adiotelegraphy.鈥� Crucial transmissions in World War I battles like the Marne came to be relied on.
On Sept. 27, the Eiffel hosts 28 envoys of the World Federation of Great Towers. Currently a Greek company is repainting the Eiffel 鈥� 25 painters over 18 months are swabbing on 60 tons of rustproofing.
