An archipelago was losing its ancient sport. African migrants may save it.
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| Tegueste, Spain
Mamadou Camara and his opponent step out into the sandy arena. The two men 鈥 towering, hulking figures 鈥 bend at the waist and lock into position, grabbing the edges of each other鈥檚 rolled-up white shorts, head on each other鈥檚 shoulder.
The referee blows his whistle. And with a deceptively light touch, Mr. Camara throws his opponent to the ground, a spray of golden dust flying upwards.
This is lucha Canaria 鈥 Canarian wrestling 鈥 and Mr. Camara is one of the Canary Islands鈥 best wrestlers. But unlike most locals who enter this traditional sport through their parents or grandparents, Mr. Camara learned about it when a coach came to the youth migrant center where he was living after he arrived from Mali in a wooden fishing boat in 2008. Now it鈥檚 what鈥檚 keeping him here.
Why We Wrote This
A story focused onImmigration is sometimes perceived as a threat to tradition. But in Spain鈥檚 Canary Islands, it appears to be the means to preserve a centuries-old sport that has been in danger of dying out.
鈥淚鈥檓 always learning. It鈥檚 not the same for me as locals who鈥檝e been doing it since they were two,鈥 says Mr. Camara, icing his ankle after a competition in Tegueste, on the island of Tenerife. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚 helped me learn Spanish, make friends. Lucha Canaria is about 80% of my life now.鈥
Mr. Camara wrestles for Tegueste, known as the birthplace of the sport. At the entrance to the town, a bronze statue shows two men tangled in an intense grip. Due to its rich history, the Tegueste Club has managed to maintain its roster, but that鈥檚 not the case across the archipelago. Clubs are fighting to return to numbers equivalent to the sport鈥檚 heyday in the 1980s, especially as lucha Canaria competes for young people鈥檚 attention in the face of other internationally recognized sports.
But lately, coaches are recruiting from an unexpected population: young African migrants. Not only are they joining in increasing numbers and reviving this traditional sport, but lucha Canaria has become a catalyst to their integration into Spanish society.
And at a time when migration to the Canary Islands 鈥 and racism against immigrants 鈥 is at a record high, lucha Canaria is helping build understanding between migrants and locals.
鈥淚 believe that migrants who end up living permanently in the Canary Islands approach local traditions with great respect and vice versa,鈥 says Vicente Manuel Zapata Hern谩ndez, an associate professor of human geography who studies migration at the University of La Laguna in Tenerife. 鈥淪ports like lucha Canaria can serve as an instrument of social inclusion of young migrants and this is a factor in their normalization vis-脿-vis the local population 鈥 and they help prevent racist behavior.鈥
A new life for, and through, lucha
Lucha Canaria was first played by the islands鈥 Aboriginal population, Los Guanches, and was considered a noble sport throughout the 16th century. In 1943, the first lucha Canaria federation was created and today, some of the more important matches are broadcast on local television.
Lucha Canaria is played on a circular sandy pitch, and players must knock their opponent to the ground through grabs, blocks, or lifts. Striking and chokeholds are not permitted. Wrestlers lose when any part of the body besides the soles of the feet touches the ground.
But despite its longevity, lucha Canaria remains a local sport. The only equivalent abroad is traditional Korean wrestling 鈥 ssireum 鈥 so the opportunities to play it internationally or professionally are practically nonexistent. For the 2023-24 season, 2,794 people are officially registered among the 2.2 million people living across the chain of eight islands, according to the regional Lucha Canaria Federation.
鈥淜ids don鈥檛 see it as an attractive sport anymore,鈥 says Marco Galv谩n Rodriguez, the president of the Tegueste club. 鈥淭hey think it鈥檚 for our ancestors. They want to play soccer or basketball, or play on their cellphones.鈥
But African migrants are changing that. In 2023, the Canary Islands received over 40,000 migrants, surpassing numbers from the archipelago鈥檚 2006 migratory crisis. There are currently around 5,000 minors on the islands and around 60% are unaccompanied, according to the Immigration Observatory of Tenerife (OBITen).
While the majority of those over 18 years old are sent to the Spanish peninsula upon arrival, minors are provided housing in dedicated centers, where they can learn Spanish and get administrative help. That鈥檚 where lucha Canaria coaches increasingly see an opportunity.
Whereas trainers once went into schools to tell local children about the ancestral sport, now they鈥檙e going to youth migrant centers for new recruits. On the island of El Hierro, the Concepci贸n Club has built a team of 11 Senegalese minors, after coaches realized Senegal鈥檚 folk wrestling was similar to lucha Canaria, and that the sport could help the young men integrate.
The Spanish national government also sees sports as a way for young migrants to learn local traditions and Spanish values. In October, it announced the opening of 25 new sports centers, distributed between the Canary Islands and the Spanish peninsula, aimed specifically at migrants and their social integration.
鈥淭he majority of migrants don鈥檛 want to stay here in the Canary Islands,鈥 says Mar铆a Fonte Garc铆a, assistant director of OBITen. 鈥淏ut for those who do, especially minors, there are more and more initiatives being created to help them integrate and create a life here. Sports are playing a significant role in that.鈥
鈥淥ne more person at the table鈥
It鈥檚 not to say that integrating into Spain鈥檚 relatively homogenous social fabric has been easy. The continuing influx of migration in the last two decades has meant that immigrants face higher than average levels of microaggressions, dehumanization, and indifference, especially those who are racial minorities, according to a January by OBITen.
But sports like lucha Canaria have offered one way around that. Juan Pedro Hern谩ndez, the coach of the Adelfas Club in Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife, says when he first invited his newly recruited African wrestlers to his parents鈥 house a few years ago, it was a shock.
鈥淢y parents had never had a Black person in their house before and they were uncomfortable at first,鈥 says Mr. Hern谩ndez, taking a break on the stadium bleachers during a Monday night practice. 鈥淏ut now they say, 鈥極K, it鈥檚 just one more person at the table.鈥欌
Mr. Hern谩ndez says it鈥檚 been easy to integrate the half-dozen African migrants who practice regularly at his club into the team. He makes sure not to serve pork during team dinners for those who are Muslim, and some wrestlers have gotten seasonal work at his ranch.
The feelings are mutual. Souleymane Sady arrived in El Hierro in 2020 from Senegal and sought out the local wrestling tradition once he got to Tenerife because his grandfather was once a champion of Senegalese wrestling. He has learned Spanish and made friends through the sport.
For Youssouf Toure, who has been at the Adelfas Club for three years, lucha Canaria and his team have become like family. Mr. Hern谩ndez tears up when he talks about Mr. Toure, who arrived unaccompanied from Mali to Gran Canaria at age 16.
鈥淲hen I think about all he鈥檚 been through to get here and have a better life, by himself 鈥︹ says Mr. Hern谩ndez, his voice trailing off, as the two sit down on the bleachers before practice.
鈥淛uan Pedro is like my dad,鈥 says Mr. Toure, looking off toward the pitch. 鈥淚 know that if I have any problem, he鈥檒l find a solution. He鈥檒l be there for me.鈥