海角大神

On a chilly morning in mid-August, Daudi Saning鈥檕 set off as usual from his home on Tanzania鈥檚 Serengeti plain, his horned cattle lazily roaming alongside him. Their bells clanged softly. For as long as he could remember, tending to his herd here had been his life鈥檚 purpose, and a connection to his pastoral Maasai heritage.

鈥淚 love my livestock as much as I love my family,鈥� says the 40-something father of seven.

Now, however, Mr. Saning鈥檕鈥檚 way of life was under siege. Since 2022, the Tanzanian government had relocated聽from this corner of the country. It claimed their presence threatened the conservation of the area鈥檚 world-famous, acacia-dotted landscapes. But watching that same land being carved up for safari parks and trophy-hunting reserves, Maasai and their supporters suspected less pure motives.

And the pressure was still building. That morning, as Mr. Saning鈥檕 walked beside his cows, he got a call from a friend. The man told him to check his voter registration.

When he did, Mr. Saning鈥檕 discovered that for the local government elections on Nov. 27, he had not been assigned to vote in his own village, as he always had in the past. Instead, he had to cast his ballot in the town of Msomera, a seven-hour bus ride away.

Although Mr. Saning鈥檕 had never been there, the name was familiar. It was the location of the settlement the government had built for Maasai whom it had moved out of the Serengeti. Looking at his registration, Mr. Saning鈥檕 feared he would be next.

鈥淔irst, they banned us from grazing [in certain areas]. Now they don鈥檛 even want us to vote in our own villages,鈥� he says. 鈥淚t feels like they鈥檙e pushing us out.鈥�

Pristine landscapes

Around the time Mr. Saning鈥檕 learned about his new polling station, more than 40,000 other Maasai made the same discovery. Their registration had been moved to Msomera, only three months ahead of voting day on Nov. 27, according to Giveness Aswile, a spokesperson for the Independent National Electoral Commission.

The decision sounded alarm bells among many Maasai, who saw it as a tactic to further weaken their formal connection to their land.

Historically, the Maasai have herded their cattle on聽the plains that straddle northern Tanzania and southern Kenya. Today, most Maasai in Tanzania live in a district called Ngorongoro.

Sergio Pitamitz /VWPics/AP/File

Maasai are pictured with their cattle in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania, March 13, 2022.

But they are far from the only ones with an interest in that land. The site of one of the largest animal migrations on Earth and unique geological features like the world鈥檚 largest volcanic caldera, Ngorongoro has long been a magnet for all kinds of global do-gooders and adventure-seekers 鈥� and their money. Today, its game reserves draw about 750,000 tourists a year.

The region is a particularly beloved holiday destination of the Dubai royal family, who come by private jet and other wildlife in their own private game reserve. One sheikh recently to lease a vast swatch of Tanzania鈥檚 forests 鈥� totaling 8% of the country鈥檚 land 鈥� for a carbon offset business.

Part of the region鈥檚 allure is its supposed emptiness 鈥� a place that appears untouched by humans. Tanzania鈥檚 government says the growing Maasai communities in the region threaten both the wildlife and natural environment.

Since 2022, it has used a variety of tactics to compel Maasai to leave Ngorongoro. On protected聽land, their cattle-grazing has been severely restricted and key water supplies cut off. Social services such as hospitals and schools have been shuttered. Some Maasai communities have been evicted by force, while others have taken聽buyouts to move out of the region.

To date, about 10,000 Maasai have moved to Msomera, a town more than 300 miles away in a dry, windswept part of eastern聽Tanzania. There, large polygamous families are crowded into single houses, and people say the parched land is not suitable for grazing their herds.

鈥淚t鈥檚 very difficult, we are losing our way of life,鈥� says Edwin Nang鈥檕ye, a father of eight from two wives.聽He moved to Msomera in March after accepting a government offer of 10 million Tanzanian shillings (about $3,600) and a small house.

Dignity at stake

In mid-August, Mr. Saning鈥檕 joined a large group of Maasai in staging protest marches calling for their voter registration to be changed back to Ngorongoro. One human rights activist estimated that thousands of people joined the demonstrations.

鈥淚f the relocation exercise is voluntary, why have they removed villages鈥� from the list of local wards, asked James Moringe, a councilor for Alaitole ward in Ngorongoro.

Demonstrators marched with banners carrying messages like 鈥淲e will fight for our land until the end,鈥� singing and tearfully reciting prayers as they went. They blocked roads, cutting off access to the Toyota Land Cruisers that carried binocular-wielding safari tourists into the conservation area each day.

鈥淲hen our right to vote is taken away, our dignity, too, is at stake,鈥� explains Rose Njilo, a local leader who was part of the protests.

At first, the government denied there was any problem with the voter roll. But after five days of protest, and to reinstate the Ngorongoro wards removed from the voter roll, a representative of the president arrived to address the demonstrators.

鈥淎ll eligible citizens in Ngorongoro will be allowed to vote in their respective areas, just like any other Tanzanians,鈥� explained William Lukuvi, a cabinet minister, according to local television reports.

Supposedly, it was a victory. But Mr. Saning鈥檕 and other demonstrators cannot shake the feeling that the fight isn鈥檛 over.

Many Maasai say that after the problems they faced, they could no longer vote for the ruling Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM) party. 鈥淗ow can I support a party that doesn鈥檛 respect our rights?鈥� asks Mr. Saning鈥檕, who was previously a loyal CCM supporter. Supporting the opposition, however, is no simple choice in Tanzania, where non-CCM candidates and supporters are . During the last local government elections in 2019, the opposition chose to in protest against CCM manipulation of the polls.

For the Maasai, the goal of the election is simple: to choose representatives who support their right to be in Ngorongoro.

鈥淭his land is everything to us,鈥� Mr. Saning鈥檕 says. 鈥淎nd we will fight to stay.鈥�