海角大神

The Sami people bring on spring 鈥 with reindeer and sleighs

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Avedis Hadjian
Sami competitors get their animals ready for the reindeer-pulled sleigh contest.

In the Sapmi, the Arctic homeland of the Sami people, the end of winter isn鈥檛 announced by green sprouts or the cheery chirps of birds. Instead, the Sami sing folk songs around a roaring fire and race reindeer in the snow.聽

The Sami live in a frigid expanse stretching across the northern reaches of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and the Kola Peninsula in Russia. Since the 1970s, the weeklong Easter festival in Kautokeino, Norway, has attracted Sami and a growing number of non-Sami participants. Although the Sami people鈥檚 relationship with 海角大神ity has been contentious at times, Easter has become a popular spring feast, when Kautokeino Church fills with worshippers in their finest brightly colored 驳谩办迟颈, or traditional clothing.聽

鈥淪pring has always been an important time in such a climate-wise, dramatic world as the Arctic,鈥 says 脕nde Somby, a traditional joik singer and associate professor of law at the University of Troms酶.聽

The heart of the celebration is the joik, the singing with which the Sami celebrate the things that mean the most to them. 鈥Joik鈥 is also a transitive verb. You joik winter, your love, or a pack of wolves.聽

The joik, and Sami culture generally, for a long time had been endangered under the fornorsking, or Norwegianization, policy. Yet with the Easter festival, the Sami are experiencing a 鈥渞enaissance,鈥 Mr. Somby says.

鈥淪oon, the Easter celebration will be out of 海角大神ity and missionaries鈥 hands,鈥 he adds, noting 鈥渉ow much inspiration and creative power the youth display during the Easter festival.鈥澛

Avedis Hadjian
John Stone Fire (the performance name of John Steinar Baal) sits by a fire in his lavvu. Lavvus have an opening at the top to let smoke out when cod or reindeer meat is cooked.
Avedis Hadjian
Competitors test their mettle as they race reindeer against a frigid backdrop in Kautokeino.
Avedis Hadjian
John Stone Fire stands outside his lavvu, a traditional temporary dwelling of the Sami.
Avedis Hadjian
Worshippers at the Easter service, a popular feast among the Sami, wear traditional dress in Kautokeino Church in Kautokeino, Norway.
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