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After 100 years, and decades of cleanup, shellfishing set to return to Boston Harbor

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Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
Chris Mancini, executive director of Save the Harbor/Save the Bay, holds softshell clams on Carson Beach on March 13, 2026. Soon, people will be able to dig up these kinds of clams in other parts of the Boston Harbor.

George H.W. Bush, trying to discredit then-Massachusetts Gov. Michael Dukakis in the 1988 presidential race, christened Boston Harbor as the 鈥渄irtiest harbor in America.鈥

The unsavory title stuck. By the time Mr. Bush delivered his rebuke from a boat in the harbor, Americans nationwide already knew about Boston's filthy waterways. The Charles River, which runs to the edge of the harbor, had inspired the 1966 hit song 鈥淒irty Water鈥 by The Standells. In 1989, Boston was pumping some 480 million gallons of raw sewage into the harbor daily. Mr. Bush, then the vice president, gave the harbor another nickname during the campaign: 鈥淭he Harbor of Shame.鈥

鈥淚t was embarrassing,鈥 says Jim Costin, a longtime resident of Winthrop, which sits on the harbor. He also owns Belle Isle Seafood, a local eatery.

Why We Wrote This

Boston is joining the list of cities that are achieving results after sustained harbor cleanup efforts. Some towns will soon see the return of recreational shellfishing, a New England tradition.

As of January, Mr. Costin and others can take pride in the harbor.

The Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries has declared parts of Boston Harbor clean enough for recreational shellfishing for the first time in a century. Since many shellfish are filter feeders that pump water through their gills, waterborne contaminants tend to build up in their bodies, making them bellwethers for overall water health. If the shellfish are free of pollutants, it鈥檚 a sign the water is cleaner.

Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
Beaches in Hull, Massachusetts, including Nantasket, will soon be open for shellfishing for the first time in 100 years.

Shellfishing will soon be allowed in some areas off the coasts of Winthrop, just northeast of the city, and in Hingham and Hull, two towns on the southern end of the harbor. Residents will have to wait for the towns to create regulations, and shellfishing might still be prohibited during times of low water quality, such as after heavy rains. Still, a region with a legendary reputation for fresh, high-quality seafood has reason to celebrate. (Try an authentic clam chowder recipe.)听

鈥淚t speaks a lot to all of the hard work that was done to clean up the harbor, to make quality of life [better] for not only the people that live here, but also the marine life,鈥 says Joanne Coletta-Levine, a spokesperson for Schooner鈥檚, a seafood restaurant in Hull.

Cities and states across the country have worked to clean up waterways since 1972, when the Clean Water Act made it illegal to discharge pollution into water without a federal permit. Between 1972 and 2001, the share of U.S. waterways clean enough for fishing increased by more than 10 percentage points, according to a 2018 study in the Quarterly Journal of Economics that analyzed some 50 million water samples.

Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
Chris Mancini of Save the Harbor/Save the Bay digs for softshell clams on Carson Beach. The beach is not open for shellfishing, so the clams cannot be eaten.

The act also provided cities with billions of dollars to build or improve water treatment facilities. Cities such as Portland, Oregon; New York; and Baltimore have also seen success cleaning up their harbors.

Yet the level of triumph has varied, says Brad Campbell, president of the Conservation Law Foundation in Boston. Though Massachusetts invested billions into cleaning up the harbor, other municipalities have struggled to take care of toxic waste from industrial facilities. Many cities 鈥 Boston included 鈥 still face challenges from sewage pollution that flows into waterways during storms. Nevertheless, Mr. Campbell says Boston stands out.

鈥淲ith the cleanup, it鈥檚 become an enormously attractive place for people to live, work, and play,鈥 he says.

Decades of work on the harbor

Massachusetts all but banned shellfishing in Boston Harbor in 1925, amid growing nationwide concerns about the safety of oysters. The state limited shellfishing there to specially licensed commercial harvesters. The shellfish had to be purified at a plant in Newburyport, about 40 miles north of Boston, before they could be safely eaten.

For clean-harbor advocates, it鈥檚 taken decades to get from that point to cleaner waters. Three lawsuits in the early 1980s attempted to force the Metropolitan District Commission, a state agency that managed water supply and sewage in Boston, to clean up the harbor. At the time, two MDC water treatment plants were dumping some 350 million gallons of minimally treated wastewater into the harbor each day, according to a 2018 study by University of Massachusetts Boston and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

In 1985, U.S. District Judge A. David Mazzone ordered that the Massachusetts Water Resources Authority, which replaced the MDC in 1984, build a new water treatment facility. Since then, the MWRA has spent about $6.6 billion cleansing the harbor, says Stephen Estes-Smargiassi, the agency鈥檚 director of planning and sustainability. He has been working on the cleanup for nearly 40 years.

The resource authority鈥檚 spending includes opening a new treatment plant on Deer Island near Winthrop, cleaning up urban beaches, and building a pipe system to funnel treated wastewater to the ocean where it can be diluted. While other municipalities funded new or upgraded treatment plants with federal grants, the Deer Island plant largely used money from consumers鈥 water and sewer bills.

The plant on Deer Island now treats about 365 million gallons of wastewater daily. In contrast to prior treatment plants, all of its discharges are treated to legal standards.

Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
Save the Harbor/Save the Bay鈥檚 executive director, Chris Mancini, and staff scientist Emily Schutt sit on Carson Beach in Boston, March 13, 2026. The organization has worked for decades toward harbor beach cleanup.

Challenges remain, says Chris Mancini, executive director at Save the Harbor/Save the Bay, which has advocated harbor cleanup since the 1980s. Like many older cities, Boston uses a combined sewage overflow system, meaning that wastewater and stormwater collect into one pipe. Normally, this water safely flows to a treatment plant. But heavy rains can overwhelm the system and cause untreated water to flow into nearby waterways.

Still, the cleanup has reduced such overflows and led to quality of life improvements 鈥 such as making the harbor swimmable. It has also spurred economic growth, says Emilly Schutt, a staff scientist at Save the Harbor/Save the Bay.

鈥淭his is a working waterfront,鈥 she says. 鈥淧eople are making their livelihood being on the water, and so having a clean system for them to do that is providing jobs.鈥

A return to local seafood

And, now, the cleanup has revived the age-old New England tradition of digging up your own seafood.

鈥淚t鈥檚 good news for the residents of the town, and also for residents of the commonwealth,鈥 says Kurt Bornheim, Hull鈥檚 harbormaster. 鈥淭his is going to open up a lot of opportunities.鈥

Harbormasters such as Mr. Bornheim enforce marine laws, manage boat passage, and maintain water infrastructure like docks. They鈥檙e primarily responsible for designing a web of rules to regulate shellfishing in their communities. For Hull, that includes developing a permitting process and hiring an additional employee to help patrol the beach.

Melanie Stetson Freeman/Staff
Hull Harbormaster Kurt Bornheim poses on a dock by his office.

Mr. Bornheim, who has served as Hull鈥檚 harbormaster for nearly three decades, is taking the new challenge in stride. He has enrolled in classes at Cape Cod Community College to renew his certification as a shellfish constable, municipal officers charged with enforcing shellfish regulations. Mr. Bornheim says the primary catch for Hull鈥檚 recreational shellfishers will be softshell and surf clams 鈥 though he hopes residents will soon be able to cultivate oysters, too.

Hull residents might soon be able to enjoy those same clams in local restaurants. Ms. Coletta-Levine, the spokesperson for Schooner鈥檚, says the restaurant is looking forward to serving more local catch.

鈥淲e鈥檇 love to support our local economy and the people that live here,鈥 she says. 鈥淲hat鈥檚 not to get excited about local, fresh seafood?鈥

Mr. Costin, the owner of Belle Isle Seafood in Winthrop, doesn鈥檛 anticipate the announcement changing how he runs his business. He already sources many clams locally 鈥 though, for now, they are treated at a purification plant. Yet, as a Winthrop native, he is excited to see the harbor cleaner than it was when he began working at Belle Isle as a teenager.

Back then, the waters of the harbor were brown, polluted by sewage, and fishless, he says. Mr. Costin envied those living on Cape Cod, who had long waded into the waters of the Atlantic to dig up their own dinner.

Now, he says, his Winthrop neighbors can do the same.

Correction: This story, originally published March 23, has been corrected to show that the song "Dirty Water" refers to the Charles River.聽

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Why New Englanders won't clam up about chowder

The cultivation and consumption of shellfish have long been part of New England culinary traditions. Their evolution has incorporated practices from both Native Americans and European colonists, as well as later regional preferences.

Consider clam chowder. In the coastal villages of France, a centuries-old tradition of tossing a share of a fisherman鈥檚 daily catch into a huge communal copper pot 鈥 la chaudi猫re 鈥 was later shortened to become 鈥渃howder鈥 as it made its way to Canada and down into New England. There, it met with the abundant native, hard-shelled quahog clams, which were stirred with onions, potatoes, and salt pork or bacon 鈥 a staple on European sailing ships. If dairy cows were available, milk, cream, and butter were added.

But not all East Coast 鈥渃howderheads鈥 like dairy mixed with their clams. Manhattan clam chowder has no dairy and adds tomatoes. A Maine state representative once found this so infuriating that he drafted a bill in 1939 to criminalize mixing tomatoes and clams in the same pot. Rhode Island and Connecticut clam chowder bans both tomatoes and dairy from the clear broth soup in those states. This aligns with what some culinary historians maintain is the preferred clam chowder practice of Native peoples, allowing the briny taste of quahogs to shine more intensely.

Jessica B. Harris shares the following recipe in 鈥溾 and notes, 鈥淭he chowder is made with a base of fish stock, and tastes of the salt air that surrounds Aquinnah,鈥 a town on Martha鈥檚 Vineyard in Massachusetts that is the ancestral home of the Aquinnah Wampanoag. 鈻

--Kendra Nordin Beato, staff writer

Clear broth clam chowder
Serves 6 to 8

6 ounces salt pork, rinsed and cut into 陆-inch cubes
1 medium onion, finely chopped
陆 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
2 cups chopped canned clams
1 陆 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 陆-inch cubes
2 cups fish stock, store-bought or homemade
1 陆 cups bottled clam juice
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In a Dutch oven, cook the salt pork over medium heat, stirring regularly, until browned and crisp, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a small bowl.

2. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat from the pot.
Add the onions and fennel seeds, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Increase the heat to high. Add the clams and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the potatoes, fish stock, clam juice, 1 tablespoon of the dill, and reserved salt pork. Bring to a boil; then, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

4. Taste and season with salt and pepper, if needed. Ladle into bowls, garnish with the remaining dill, and serve with crackers.

Recipe adapted with permission from Clarkson Potter/Publishers,
an imprint of Penguin Random House.

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