There鈥檚 plenty of palate-pleasing fusion in the culinary universe. It can even meld cultures. Food can still be a defender of identity, though. That鈥檚 the case in embattled Ukraine.听
Take borsch. Ukrainians pointedly leave off the T, which Russian transliterations include. Their beet-based staple comes in far more vibrant forms (and colors) than you鈥檇 think, Howard LaFranchi reports today.听
鈥淔ood is ... a basic part of how people show their care towards their loved ones,鈥 a source tells Howard. The Soviet era buried local cultural traditions, she says. The current war is a burning reminder. The chefs pushing back are stirring up dignity.听