海角大神

Organic鈥檚 crunch: Once high-flying firms face three big threats to growth

Once high-flying firms face three big threats to growth.

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John Nordell/海角大神
A plethora of vegetables are artfully displayed in the produce section at a Whole Foods Market in Boston. Organic food companies worry that fast-growing sales of 'natural' foods will confuse consumers into equating the two. Only organic products are government-certified.
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Toby Talbot/AP
This curious Holstein in Coventry, Vt., produces organic milk for yogurt maker Stonyfield Farm. Falling sales have created a glut in the organic foods market.

After posting 22 percent growth on record sales last year, Organic Valley Family of Farms entered 2009 with a thud.

The recession played a part. It trimmed demand for premium-priced food. The organic milk market turned from dearth to glut. The LaForge, Wis., company that bills itself as America鈥檚 largest cooperative of organic farmers, had to cut its dairy farmers鈥 output by 7 percent to avoid dropping some farmers or reducing the payments they receive.

But something else is weighing down Organic Valley and the rest of the once high-flying organic-food industry. They face new competition as cheaper 鈥渘atural鈥 foods gain market share. They鈥檙e also battling a blow to their reputation from a British government report disputing the claim that organic products are more nutritious and offer more health benefits than conventionally produced food.

The threats are 鈥渢he biggest challenges the industry has ever seen,鈥 says Phil Howard, a food-system expert at Michigan State University in East Lansing.

Far from withering on the vine, however, the industry is cutting costs, rolling out new offerings, sending out coupons, and at times reducing prices by selling smaller-sized packages. Those who weather the storm could prosper if they create ever more appealing and healthy foods that can attract a wider audience.

YoBaby Meals, which debuted this year, is one example of the new push. The yogurt includes both fruit and a vegetable pur茅e. It鈥檚 鈥渁 complete meal in a cup鈥 and enables the company to 鈥渞each into the realm of baby food,鈥 says a spokeswoman for Stonyfield Farm.

The Londonderry, N.H., company has also added to its line of Oikos Greek yogurt 鈥 鈥渙ne of the greatest successes we鈥檝e ever had,鈥 says CEO and cofounder Gary Hirshberg 鈥 and completely changed its packaging. Now, containers show a photo of a farm that supplies Stonyfield with organic milk. 鈥淲ith all the artificial ingredients around,鈥 the company says on some yogurt lids, 鈥渨e thought we鈥檇 show you one of the real family farms.鈥

Stonyfield, which grew an average 19 percent a year between 1990 and 2008, has seen sales slow. Even so, 鈥渨e are growing quite well,鈥 Mr. Hirshberg says, with revenues reaching $335 million this year. Stonyfield has an incentive to keep growing. Groupe Danone of France, which owns 85 percent of the company, lets it operate independently as long as it meets certain (undisclosed) financial goals.

The industry is following a similar pattern. Organic food and beverage sales grew 17 percent in 2007, 12 percent in 2008, and will grow 7 percent this year to almost $22.8 billion, according to a forecast by Nutrition Business Journal.

Until last October, sales at Nature鈥檚 Path Organic Foods were soaring at an average 20 to 30 percent a year. While recession has curbed that winning streak, there are some renewed signs of growth for the Canadian company based in Richmond, British Columbia. June sales were 8 percent higher than a year ago, says Arran Stephens, the company鈥檚 founder and CEO. Nature鈥檚 Path continues to expand.

With 103 products, including 37 ready-to-eat cereals and seven granolas, the $200 million-plus company is rolling out nine new products in this fiscal year. Among them are Optimum Strawberry Yogurt cereal (one of Mr. Stephens鈥檚 鈥渘ew favorites鈥) and three new gluten-free cereals.

This fall, the company plans a multimillion-dollar advertising and marketing campaign for a top product, Pumpkin Flax Plus Granola. The company will use the Internet, street sampling, radio spots, transit billboards, and, for the first time, TV spots to get the word out.

Eden Foods, based in Clinton, Mich., has already introduced 18 new food items this year. Hit with competition, Eden鈥檚 sales of soy milk plunged from a dominant market share early in the decade to roughly 9 percent today. But growth in whole grains and beans sales has more than offset that drop in market share.

鈥淲e鈥檙e doing fine,鈥 says Michael Potter, owner and cofounder of the $60 million company. 鈥淲e鈥檝e been around a long time and our company has a solid foundation in every way.鈥

The recession has slowed growth from the 鈥渉igh teens鈥 two years ago to 3.5 percent in this year鈥檚 first six months versus the same period in 2008, he says. Eden has pared marketing and sales outlays about 15 percent in the last two years. Even so, 鈥渨e鈥檙e looking to hire in multiple departments, including sales,鈥 says Mr. Potter.

The industry鈥檚 latest challenge comes from the Foods Standards Agency in Britain. It commissioned a report that found 鈥渘o important differences in the nutrition content, or any additional health benefits, of organic food鈥 over conventional food. The finding undercuts one of the industry鈥檚 main claims about the advantages of its products. Various groups have challenged the findings, including the Organic Center in Boulder, Colo. 鈥淯sing state-of-the-art analytical methods, modern science is clear that organic fruits and vegetables average a 25 percent higher level of nutrients鈥 than comparable conventional foods, says Chuck Benbrook, the center鈥檚 chief scientist.

The 鈥渘atural鈥 food phenomenon also worries many organic industry officials. It鈥檚 not just because natural products cost consumers less than government-certified organic food. The move also threatens to equate natural with organic in the minds of consumers, they say.

Early this year, for instance, WhiteWave Foods added a line of natural Silk soy milk to its line of organic products. This summer, WhiteWave (a unit of Dean Foods) broadened its Horizon line of organic products with its first natural offering: Little Blends, a yogurt for toddlers. In August, it began test-marketing Milk Breakers, a six-ounce single serving of natural milk with added protein.

This year, for the first time since at least 2004, sales of 鈥渘atural鈥 foods and beverages should grow at a faster rate than sales of organic foods, according to Nutrition Business Journal.

The organic industry is fighting back. Organic Valley has been churning out new products, including a 12-pack of single servings of organic milk and a line of Vermont cheddar cheese. This fall, it plans to start rolling out a new pourable yogurt in two flavors.

In September, the company will debut an online calculator that lets consumers see how many chemicals they avoid by using organic versus conventional milk.

鈥淲e鈥檙e holding on when some other sectors are sinking,鈥 says Theresa Marquez, chief marketing executive for Organic Valley. 鈥淥ur future is organic.鈥

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