海角大神

The Year Before the Flood

Music, race, politics, and history come together in this author鈥檚 examination of the year he spent in New Orleans.

The Year Before the Flood: A Story of New Orleans By Ned Sublette Lawrence Hill Books 452 pp., $27.95

In December of 2004 my husband and I took a short vacation in New Orleans. Like hundreds of thousands of tourists before us, we fell completely under the city鈥檚 odd spell. In fact, I have a vivid memory of experiencing a moment of total bliss as we strolled a funky stretch of Magazine Street one sunny morning. Who could have imagined that nine months later that same block would be a morass of broken signs and spray-painted plywood?

Ned Sublette 鈥 who lived in the city at that exact time 鈥 did have such a premonition. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e all in denial,鈥 he told a friend one night the spring of 2005 as they traveled uptown to hear some jazz. Throughout the months he spent in New Orleans, he says, he was constantly haunted by the feeling that the life around him was 鈥渋mperiled.鈥

The Year Before the Flood tells the story of the blissful yet troubled, intense but joyous, never-entirely-comfortable year that Sublette spent in New Orleans. It also happened to be the year before the city was struck by hurricane Katrina.

Sublette was a Tulane Rockefeller Humanities Fellow at Tulane University for the school year of 2004-2005. Out of that experience came his excellent history 鈥淭he World that Made New Orleans鈥 (2008). But his experiences had left him with another, more personal book yet to write 鈥 story of the year he spent in New Orleans, brutally punctuated by the city鈥檚 devastation at the hands of Katrina.

He didn鈥檛 come to Louisiana as a stranger. Sublette actually spent the first nine years of his life in Natchitoches, La. But he has since passed most of his adult life in New York, and when he and his wife, the writer Constance Ash, arrived for his fellowship New Orleans was in most senses foreign territory for them 鈥 a sensation that was alternately delightful and terrifying.

They rented a 1880s home in the Irish Channel district, charmed by its old floors and 14-foot ceilings and the way they were lulled to sleep by the sound of passing trains from the other side of the Tchoupitoulas wall. They were charmed, that is, until they met a neighbor who casually said, 鈥淥h, that鈥檚 the house where that boy got killed.鈥 It turns out a previous tenant, a Tulane student, had been stabbed to death there by two intruders looking for money.

It鈥檚 hard to say how much of 鈥淭he Year Before the Flood鈥 is really about Sublette and how much is about New Orleans. Most of the time, the two seem intertwined. The fear of violence that Sublette and his wife were never able to shake throughout their time there permeates much of the city history that Sublette relates. Yet the intense joy that he takes in the city鈥檚 music (Sublette has a rich background as musician and music historian 鈥 he鈥檚 also the only person I鈥檝e ever heard of to graduate from the University of New Mexico with a degree in guitar) is also a major part of the book and of the music history that he shares.

The Sublettes eventually settle in, learning to develop 鈥渁 crescent-shaped sense of direction鈥 so they can navigate the city, and fall in line with its traditions. They marvel at Mardi Gras (although it鈥檚 the African-American traditions 鈥 especially the dancing of the New Orleans Indians 鈥 that fascinate them most) and Sublette鈥檚 descriptions here are vivid and evocative. Sublette enjoys going out to hear live music several times a week but Constance prefers to stay home 鈥 always a problem because he can never shake his fear of her being alone in their house after dark.

It is JazzFest, however, that finally drives them out of New Orleans. A drunken reveler finds his way into their bedroom (actually trying to access an apartment above them) but they cannot recover from the incident and they leave New Orleans in May, a month earlier than scheduled.

Then, in August, they hear of the storm descending on the city and Sublette鈥檚 darkest forbodings for the city seem to be realized.

Sublette mentions his disdain for the 鈥渄readed gumbo metaphor鈥 so often trotted out when people write of New Orleans. Too bad, because that鈥檚 just what 鈥淭he Year Before the Flood鈥 is 鈥 a highly seasoned mix of music, race, politics, history, city lore, and personal tale.

鈥淭he Year Before the Flood鈥 is a glimpse of America鈥檚 most idiosyncratic city through a highly personal lens. But beware 鈥 it may also break your heart.

Marjorie Kehe is the Monitor鈥檚 book editor.

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